Vietnam

Overview
Vietnam, a name too long associated with the horrors of war, has finally won its last battle - to capture the imagination of the travelling public. Elegant Hanoi now vies with its dynamic sister, Ho Chi Minh City (still fondly called Saigon by the locals), for the attention of visitors drawn by the eclectic mix of old and new. In both cities the streets are jam-packed with motorbikes and scooters, often carrying whole families, and the markets are chaotically busy.

Elsewhere, the scenes are timeless. Early morning on the Mekong Delta brings the daily floating markets where fruit and vegetables are peddled. Everywhere the green patchwork of rice paddies stretches into the distance, broken only by the silhouette of water buffalo and conical-hatted farm workers bending down to tend the young plants.

The soaring mountains in the north of the country tower over tiny villages where life continues much as it has done for centuries, with traditional costumes still proudly worn. Old French hill stations survive throughout the country offering welcome respite from the heat of the plains below.

The ancient former imperial capital, Hué, takes visitors back to a time of concubines and eunuchs. In every town, young women wearing the simple but feminine national dress, the ao dai, weave their way through the traffic at the controls of a motorbike.

Only in Vietnam could the past and the present be encapsulated so perfectly.

Top Things To Do

• Hire a bicycle as Vietnam is ideal for long-distance cycling - much of the country is flat and the shortage of vehicles makes for light traffic. Caution is needed however, especially on busier roads, as traffic can be very undisciplined.
• Relax on one of the many beaches, such as Vung Tau, southeast of Ho Chi Minh City or Nha Trang, where there is some superb snorkelling around the many offshore islands. Slide down the sand dunes at Mui Ne. 
• Get a made-to-measure outfit in one of the many tailors of Hoi An, beautiful with its narrow trafficless streets lined with ancient houses and temples. Relax in one of the many cafes and watch the world go by.
• Go hiking or horse riding in the beautiful countryside around Da Lat. Be pleasantly surprised at the emerald green lakes surrounded by mountains. Hike through Ba Be Lake National Park and Cuc Phuong National Park (near Hanoi), and Cat Ba National Park on Cat Ba Island.
• Go kayaking in spectacular Halong Bay and paddle through the limestone karsts dramatically rising up out of the sea.
• Hire a boat to explore the intricate network of rice paddies, swamps and forests interlaced with canals and rivers in the Mekong Delta.
• See some of the Vietnam War sights. Walk part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, used as supply routes by the North Vietnamese during the war. Go underground into the claustrophobic network of tunnels used by villagers and guerrillas during the war at Cu Chi.
• Journey at least part of the route from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City on the Reunification Express to sample life on Vietnam's railways. 
• Learn the subtleties of Vietnamese cookery at a class in ancient Hoi An. Submerge into the hustle and bustle of the market to buy provisions before retreating to the calm of the kitchen.

Top Things To See

• Start with the capital, Hanoi, which retains an air of French colonial elegance, with pretty yellow stucco buildings lining leafy streets. Wander round the Old Quarter, a fascinating maze of tiny shops, markets and cafes. Pay respects at the Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum.
• Sail through Halong Bay and be amazed by the 3,000 limestone islands rising out of the South China Sea. The area is strange, eerie and very beautiful. Many of the islands contain bizarre cave formations and grottoes.
• Savour the alpine scenery around Sapa, home to several hill tribes whose way of life has changed very little and who still wear colourful traditional costumes.
• Discover the architecture of Hué, the former capital of the emperors of Vietnam, and the remains of the Imperial Citadel (largely destroyed during the Tet offensive in 1968). Tour the nearby mausoleums of several of Vietnam's emperors, including Khai Dinh and Tu Duc, each unique in style.
• To escape the heat of the plains, head for Dalat, a former colonial hill station, reminiscent of a French town, with faded, elegant villas evocative of another era. The romantic lakes and alpine scenery are magnets for Vietnamese honeymooners.
• Savour the hustle and bustle of life on the streets of Ho Chi Minh City, with tiny temples and faded French colonial buildings overshadowed by gleaming high rises. Visit the Reunification Palace and the War Remnants Museum to learn about the realities of war.
• Attend the midday service at the unique Cao Dai Temple in Tay Ninh. En route, scramble through the tunnels at Cu Chi, from where the Viet Cong successfully launched attacks against US forces.
• Watch the river markets on the Mekong Delta, where life is dominated by the mighty Mekong and much of Vietnam's rice crop is grown.

Climate
Because of its geography, the climate in Vietnam varies greatly from north to south. Tropical monsoons occur from May to October in the north and south and from September to January in the centre. It is almost totally dry throughout the rest of the year.

Required Clothing
Loose, natural fabrics all year, but warmer clothing is required in the highlands, and in the winter in north Vietnam. Rainwear is essential during the wet season.